Gibassier!

Gibassier are sweet, yeasted and enriched dessert breads infused with olive oil, candied orange peel, anise seeds and orange blossom water.

I first learned of them through my intensive workshops at the San Francisco Baking Institute (SFBI) where they were served for breakfast. It was love at first bite with such a unique combination of flavors. SFBI’s book, Advanced Bread and Pastry says that Gibassier (named after the Gibas mountain in the Provence Alpes in France) are one of the 13 desserts served for Christmas in that region. The number 13 is significant because it represents Jesus and the 12 apostles. The 13 desserts start with the “beggars” (nuts, fresh and dried fruit) and progress to enriched dessert breads and nougats. I tend to believe Michael Suas’ (author of the cookbook) interpretation of Gibassier, as he is well known and well researched. However, other research tells me that Gibassier are made year-round and are often confused with “pompe à l’huile,” a similar dessert bread, but only made at Christmas time. 

I don’t care about the differing versions and I suggest that you don’t either. I make my recipe (based on Epicurious’ recipe) year-round. They freeze well and can be enjoyed whenever you want, made even more delicious with a bit of apricot jam on the side. Gibassier range from biscuit or scone-like in texture, to more brioche-like. I prefer the more brioche-like and I roll mine in the shape of croissants. 

I used to look for Gibassier in bakeries everywhere when I traveled but they are difficult to find. Pearl Bakery in Portland, Oregon makes them, and they are terrific, and also brioche-like. Thoroughbred Bakery (a bakery that is owned and operated by SFBI in San Francisco), also offers them, but only at Christmas and theirs is the drier, more scone-like version. 

They are a bit of a project to make, and you must do “part 1” the night before. Don’t let the multiple steps deter you. These are well worth the effort despite what time of year you want to make them. 

Arliano Update (Aggiornamento Arliano):

Country living. The joys, the sorrows… We’ve had days of very heavy rain. The good news is that our fossi (ditches) handled the water run-off quite well. The not-so-great news is that a fosso (singular ditch) that runs for several kilometers between many properties got clogged with leaves and tree branches and over ran, flooding our gravel driveway and a neighbor’s field. Much of our gravel has washed away, leaving some deep ruts in the dirt road that leads to our house. The next research project will be where to buy bulk gravel. On the positive side, we met a neighbor whom we hadn’t yet met who was out on the ditch clearing away leaves and branches even before we were. That sense of community left us warm and fuzzy despite being rain drenched. 

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